Category Archives: Cookbooks

Ebony cookbook

De Knight, Freda. The Ebony Cookbook. Chicago: Johnson Publishing Company, 1973.

This is one of my favorite retro cookbooks.  The 1973 version is not easy to find, and I was lucky to have paid only 5 bucks for it at Half-Price Books in Berkeley, one of my favorite places to buy old cookbooks – second only to library book sales.

There are some great biscuit and quickbread recipes here, as well as all the comfort food standards, like chicken and dumplings.  This is my go-to book when I want to make an easy, delicious, frosted cake on a whim, since there are numerous recipes that won’t have you turning your kitchen upside down.

If you love African-American cooking (and who doesn’t?), this is a must because the recipes are the real deal.

On collecting cookbooks

Over the years I’ve collected a number of interesting old cookbooks, many from the 1940’s through the 1970’s, a time when convenience foods, casseroles and cocktail party appetizers were all the rage.  Recipes in these retro cookbooks are often scary.  What, in my opinion, constitutes scary?  Not the liberal use of butter, cream or meat, since all wholesome foods have their rightful place in a healthy diet.  Scary generally means something that does not occur in nature, or something so bastardized it is only a shadow of its former self.  It does not necessarily mean processed, since some processed foods are fine.  Processed just means you are taking something in its raw form and transforming it into something palatable.  Certainly you can take this to the extreme, but you really need to stop and think before you condemn all processed foods.  Take the much-maligned canned meat product, Spam.  I may call a ‘Spam cordon bleu’ recipe scary for its odd use of ingredients, but not because Spam itself is evil.  Spam is, essentially, shoulder pork and ham.  The worst ingredient here is the small amount of sodium nitrite, but this is added to all cured meats, i.e., salami, bacon, in order to keep a nice color and help prevent botulism.  When you compare Spam with a product like Cool Whip, a dessert topping like whipped cream with not a trace of cream (or even milk) but with  hydrogenated oil and high fructose corn syrup, well, Spam starts looking as good as wheatgrass.

Other things from this era that make me fearful are lime Jell-O aspics containing mayonnaise and shredded vegetables.  These materials, in my opinion, should never have been brought together in one mold – ever.  I bring this up because aspics loom large in retro cooking, and some are not to be believed.  The whole appetizing genre during these years is chock full of oddities, for that matter, so if you lay your hands on a cookbook from 1950, be sure to take a gander at the hors d’oeuvres section.

In my mix are retro cooking guides that are completely sane – often to my surprise, since my collection focuses on the unusual.  For example, I have an Elsie the Cow-themed book published by Borden in 1952 that contains mostly classic, if dairy-intense, recipes.  On the other hand, many of the cookbooks and pamphlets published by manufacturers are outrageous in the application of their products, a situation made even worse by the general trend toward convenience during those years.

I have been making an attempt of late to bring publications in from the early 1900’s, opening up a whole world of information in terms of how the culinary world adapted to technological advances, like electricity and gas.  These books date back to an era when refrigeration was new, and many even advise readers that a refrigerator (and we’re not talking a three-door KitchenAid here) is “nice” for a few things, like meat and butter, but “not really necessary.”  There is nothing that brings home the convenience of modern culinary life quicker than reading a chapter on how to store perishable provisions in 1910.

My collection of 1980’s and 1990’s cookbooks is not extensive, but the ones I buy for the hell of it generally have an interesting hook, so you’ll see some of those along with my workhorses, like The Frugal Gourmet series, by and by, as I post about them

I’ll be adding cookbooks as quickly as I am able.  As always, contact me if you would like more information about a particular book.

Remembering date nut bread

Date nut bread in a loaf pan

A retro dinner the other night (my Mother made Swiss steak, remember that?) made me want to have something I have not had in a good 20 years:  date nut bread.  I have no idea if this was popular all over the country, but it was in New York City when I was a kid in the 1960’s.  Chock full o’Nuts coffee shops sold date nut bread and cream cheese sandwiches.  By the very early 1980’s, when most of the shops had already closed, there were still a few hanging on, and there was one at 116th & Broadway – across from Columbia University – that kept me alive for all those late-night classes with coffee and date nut bread, which, if you dropped it, would have broken your foot.  If you check their site (they still hawk their brand of coffee, though I have no idea how many times the company changed hands) you can hear Mrs. Black singing the jingle about Chock full o’Nuts being “the heavenly coffee” (click on the old commercial links), but they don’t have the story there of the Blacks’ nasty divorce.  Since this is not the kind of thing you’ll find in a new cookbook, I checked out one my old ones and, sure enough.  I love old cookbooks because you’re likely to find names and notes written in them — and stains — and it gives me a feeling of continuity when I think that perhaps a woman back in 1952 was making the same recipe and had dropped her 1/4 pound of butter on page 869, only for me to find it in 2009.  The chosen book was Meta Given’s Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking (Chicago:  J. G. Fergusen and Associates, 1952), whose recipe turned out a winner of a loaf, if a bit less dense than I’m used to.  Now for the cream cheese!

(Note that the recipe is missing the baking temperature. I bake it at 350 F.)

Old date nut bread recipe

Thanksgiving 2008!

Thanksgiving at Chez Akitachow in 2008

Thanksgiving at Chez Akitachow in 2008

Thanksgiving Day!  Prepared the usual suspects and had one of Matt’s friends, Chris, over, which made it a nice time.  Matt has a great group of friends – all bright, creative and inquisitive individuals.  We have fun spending time with them because it’s nice to get fresh perspectives on the same old nonsense. 

Thanksgiving turkey in 2008

The meal was topped off by a castle-shaped 7up cake with lemon glaze and a sprinkling of blue sugar. 

Castle pound cake for dinner

Berry and Steve spent some quality time resting on the futon in a tryptophan haze later in the day.  (Yes, I know this tryptophan thing is made much of, when it’s most likely alcohol or blood sugar swings due to the consumption of so many carbs knocking you out). 

Steve and Berry resting after a Thanksgiving meal

Let me add a final bit about the holiday table:  One thing I always do instead of ironing my cloth napkins (to be honest with you I don’t iron anything) is some sort of decorative fold.  If you have a good quality napkin and fold it flat as soon as it comes out of the dryer and then store it flat you’re in good shape to do this.  Use 15-inch napkins, at the smallest.  Old British cookbooks are good sources of information here since napkin folding was immensely popular in Victorian England and through at least the 1930s.  The origin of napkin folding, or napery, is argued.  Some say it actually started in Victorian England  due to the worship of all things ‘Oriental,” which, in the case of napery, sees its antecedent in origami.  Others say it is hundreds of years older than that.  I prefer to use the old folds, like the cockscomb, just for the hell of it.  The Mrs. Beeton’s series of cooking guides has a number of outrageous folds and there is information on the Web if you can’t find them in hard copy.

NY style crumb cake, where art thou?

Half-eaten New York style crumb cake in a sqaure baking dish

New York City has the best crumb cake, often sold in individual squares like brownies, with about two inches of crumb topping.  I used to buy hunks every now and again at Mama Joy’s when I was at Columbia.  I was leafing through the May/June 2007 issue of Cook’s Illustrated, which has a decent recipe, though the crumb is not exactly right.  It’s good, but not spot on.  It tastes too much like brown sugar and is floury so I may try to futz with it.  They do, however, give you the technique for producing professional-level crumbs.  The one thing I discovered is that you need to wrap the cake well and let it sit overnight to get the right texture.  If you have a good recipe then please email it to me so I can once again enjoy one of the few cakes I actually like!