Tag Archives: old cookbooks

SPAM is not mystery meat!

Hawaii’s SPAM Cookbook

SPAM may be an acronym for shoulder pork and ham, or spiced ham, depending upon which resource you consult.  Hormel indicates that Spam Classic (I love that) is made from “pork with ham, salt [I’ll say!], water, potato starch, sugar, and sodium nitrite.  If you set aside the saturated fat, salt and processing, I guess it’s not as bad as a non-food item that’s sold as food.  I don’t know.  I like to have SPAM musubi or some SPAM and eggs a couple times a century, so it’s not such a big deal for me.  My father loved SPAM, since he ate it in the army, and he would often be seen opening a can with that crazy key resulting in a sharp ribbon of metal that would sometimes slide off course and become vewy intewesting.

When I make SPAM I use the turkey variety, which does not have mechanically-seperated turkey, by the way.  (The USDA requires that it be listed if used.)  This contains less saturated fat, and is the lesser of several evils.  While turkey SPAM does not have the texture of “real” SPAM (and that says something), I usually marinate it in a teriyaki-like sauce anyway, so it winds up tasting the same.

I found a simple recipe in Hawaii’s SPAM Cookbook that I adapted.  It tastes good served over rice – close to SPAM musubi, especially if you serve it with a few strips of nori and season the rice with sushi vinegar.

Soy Sauce SPAM

1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup mirin
2 teaspoons grated ginger
SPAM, sliced; I use two 12-ounce cans for our family of 4 plus a large dog

1).  Bring all except SPAM to a boil in a low skillet; I use a large skillet so I am able to spread the SPAM out
2).  Lay in sliced SPAM and simmer over low flame for 3 or 4 minutes, turning over midway through

Serve with rice and have a bottle of hoisin sauce standing by.

Spam over rice in a bowl

Elsie the Cow’s cookbook

Botsford, Harry. Elsie’s Cookbook. New York: The Bond Wheelwright Company, 1952.

I remember Elsie the Cow from my childhood in the 1960’s, when she showed up in all kinds of advertising pamphlets – made to look like “real” children’s books – we were given in school to extol the many health properties of milk.   The Borden Company must have spent big on all that targeted advertising back in the day, and people were not as sensitive to companies taking advantage of children as a captive audience and laying who-knows-what on them.

Elsie, created as a cartoon character in the 1930’s based on a real cow  purchased by the Borden family,  is still around as the Borden/Dairy Farmers of America spokescow.

I thought this cookbook would be corporate nonsense, but it’s actually very good.  Then again, milk is a more versatile subject for a cookbook, than, say, Cool Whip or Jell-O.  There are classic sauce and potato recipes here, and there is no reason this book could not stand as one of a cook’s workhorses when it comes to cooking with dairy products.  Sure, if has some scariness, as all cookbooks from that period do, but it’s minimal.

All in all, a highly usable piece of corporate advertising.

First pages of Elsie’s Cookbook

Gay cook book

Hogan, Lou Rand. The Gay Cookbook. Los Angeles: Sherbourne Press, 1965.

Here’s an interesting cookbook loaned to me by my friend, Paul.  This is a crazy book, combining the kitsch of 60’s cooking in all its urbanity and every gay stereotype known to humankind.  I haven’t been able to find much about it yet, but it seems to have been done as high camp.  Case in point is “swish steak.”  The cover alone is worth the price of admission.

Ebony cookbook

De Knight, Freda. The Ebony Cookbook. Chicago: Johnson Publishing Company, 1973.

This is one of my favorite retro cookbooks.  The 1973 version is not easy to find, and I was lucky to have paid only 5 bucks for it at Half-Price Books in Berkeley, one of my favorite places to buy old cookbooks – second only to library book sales.

There are some great biscuit and quickbread recipes here, as well as all the comfort food standards, like chicken and dumplings.  This is my go-to book when I want to make an easy, delicious, frosted cake on a whim, since there are numerous recipes that won’t have you turning your kitchen upside down.

If you love African-American cooking (and who doesn’t?), this is a must because the recipes are the real deal.

On collecting cookbooks

Over the years I’ve collected a number of interesting old cookbooks, many from the 1940’s through the 1970’s, a time when convenience foods, casseroles and cocktail party appetizers were all the rage.  Recipes in these retro cookbooks are often scary.  What, in my opinion, constitutes scary?  Not the liberal use of butter, cream or meat, since all wholesome foods have their rightful place in a healthy diet.  Scary generally means something that does not occur in nature, or something so bastardized it is only a shadow of its former self.  It does not necessarily mean processed, since some processed foods are fine.  Processed just means you are taking something in its raw form and transforming it into something palatable.  Certainly you can take this to the extreme, but you really need to stop and think before you condemn all processed foods.  Take the much-maligned canned meat product, Spam.  I may call a ‘Spam cordon bleu’ recipe scary for its odd use of ingredients, but not because Spam itself is evil.  Spam is, essentially, shoulder pork and ham.  The worst ingredient here is the small amount of sodium nitrite, but this is added to all cured meats, i.e., salami, bacon, in order to keep a nice color and help prevent botulism.  When you compare Spam with a product like Cool Whip, a dessert topping like whipped cream with not a trace of cream (or even milk) but with  hydrogenated oil and high fructose corn syrup, well, Spam starts looking as good as wheatgrass.

Other things from this era that make me fearful are lime Jell-O aspics containing mayonnaise and shredded vegetables.  These materials, in my opinion, should never have been brought together in one mold – ever.  I bring this up because aspics loom large in retro cooking, and some are not to be believed.  The whole appetizing genre during these years is chock full of oddities, for that matter, so if you lay your hands on a cookbook from 1950, be sure to take a gander at the hors d’oeuvres section.

In my mix are retro cooking guides that are completely sane – often to my surprise, since my collection focuses on the unusual.  For example, I have an Elsie the Cow-themed book published by Borden in 1952 that contains mostly classic, if dairy-intense, recipes.  On the other hand, many of the cookbooks and pamphlets published by manufacturers are outrageous in the application of their products, a situation made even worse by the general trend toward convenience during those years.

I have been making an attempt of late to bring publications in from the early 1900’s, opening up a whole world of information in terms of how the culinary world adapted to technological advances, like electricity and gas.  These books date back to an era when refrigeration was new, and many even advise readers that a refrigerator (and we’re not talking a three-door KitchenAid here) is “nice” for a few things, like meat and butter, but “not really necessary.”  There is nothing that brings home the convenience of modern culinary life quicker than reading a chapter on how to store perishable provisions in 1910.

My collection of 1980’s and 1990’s cookbooks is not extensive, but the ones I buy for the hell of it generally have an interesting hook, so you’ll see some of those along with my workhorses, like The Frugal Gourmet series, by and by, as I post about them

I’ll be adding cookbooks as quickly as I am able.  As always, contact me if you would like more information about a particular book.