Monthly Archives: July 2009

Stonewall Kitchen scone mix

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Cheddar scones

Friends of mine gave me an assortment of food gifts from Stonewall Kitchen.  They’re from Maine and so is Stonewall Kitchen, so it was a nice, local-type thing, like when I send Acme bread out to other parts.

The scone mix has been tempting me for awhile now, so one day this past weekend I thought I’d greet the morning and residents with hot scones.  Now, mixes can be good when they are from a company that uses quality ingredients, as well as convenient, but they are never cost-effective.  I look on these as a luxury and an exception.

Scones are a bit of a mess to make, since they result in a sticky, buttery dough that needs to be rolled and cut.  In this case, the mix saves you from having to add anything but butter, but it does not save you from the messy bits.  No way around that.

I had some aged cheddar hanging ar0und, so I crumbled that into the dough.

The scones came out perfect.  They were airy with just the right amount of density, and had great flavor.  That said, the mix is listed at $6.95 on the Stonewall Kitchen website – which is too much to spend for flour, sugar, baking powder, sea salt and baking soda on an ongoing basis.

Country pork ribs

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Country pork ribs in a bowl

While it’s true that we’re trying to cut costs here at the home front right now, I have always made country pork ribs (from the blade end of the loin, by the shoulder) because they’re so good – tender, great flavor, and an open canvas for dry rubs.  I also prefer them to pork roasts because more of the surface area is subject to seasoning and caramelization.  They go on sale for about $1.80 a pound in these parts, and that’s when I nab a huge package, since they make great leftovers.

When you buy pork country ribs, they may or may not have bones, but they won’t have many in any case; these guys are eaten with a knife and fork.  Try to find some that do not have an overabundance of fat, but you’ll want decent marbling since this keeps the meat moist.

Easy Country Pork Ribs

Massage in a spice rub and Kosher salt, lay them out on a sheet pan with plenty of space between, and convect-roast them at 375 deg. F. for about 45 minutes, depending upon thickness.  They need to reach an internal temperature of 160 deg. F.

Spice rub suggestions:  shawarma, carne asada or cajun; ground thyme, garlic powder, salt and pepper.

Save your chicken fat for a rainy day

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Little packs of frozen chicken fat in my freezer

You should be frugal when it comes to cooking, utilizing whole chickens to full measure.  The Ziploc freezer bag in the bottom slot of my freezer door houses little packages of chicken fat that I’ve trimmed from whole chickens – to be used in other dishes by and by.

Passover is one holiday that sees me pulling chicken fat out of deep-freeze, namely for matzoh balls and chopped liver.  I also use it to roast potatoes and other root vegetables, either adding a bit to my usual canola oil, or going for the gusto and using 100% rendered chicken fat for a special occasion.  Given the saturated fat content of chicken fat versus that of duck fat, I tend to use the former when being luxurious, though I like having both on hand.

Rendering chicken fat for use is easy, and you can do it one of two ways:

1)  After you defrost it, cut it up and spread it out in a saute pan over a low flame.  As it renders, spoon into a container.  When cool, cover very well and store in the refrigerator.

2)  Place chicken fat in a saucepan and barely cover with water.  Simmer over low flame, uncovered.  When it starts to sizzle, almost all the water will have evaporated and you can spoon the rendered fat into a container.  If you find you have too much water, just put the cooled, covered, container in the refrigerator and then pry off the chicken fat when it is solid and move it to a fresh storage container.

You should also be saving chicken carcasses for use in congee and stock.  Stay tuned.

Succulent roast chicken via yogurt with Brussels Sprouts

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Yogurt-marinated chicken with brussels sprouts

Roast chicken is something that falls under my list of foods to have the night before execution or Armageddon.  There is nothing that offers as much comfort as a big, juicy, flavorful chicken with roasted sides, such as the brussels sprouts I show in my example.  Cooks know that making foods that seem simple – like a good roast chicken or braised short ribs – prove one’s culinary mettle.

With chicken the main issues are avoiding breast meat dryness and imparting flavor.  Now, I have prepared many, many chickens in my lifetime, and I find that one of the best ways to hit all the right marks is to use a good yogurt marinade – spreading it under the skin as well as all around the outside.  The yogurt is mixed with an acid, such as lemon or lime juice, salt and some spices.  You are also free to wipe the marinade off the outside of the chicken before roasting, but if you leave it on you’ll get a nice char, particularly under convection conditions, which is desirable if you are using, say, a tandoori spice mix.  (Although it is traditional to remove the skin when making chicken tandoori, what you want here is a flavorful whole roast chicken with skin.)

It is important to note that I salt the chicken before the marinading process in addition to adding it to the marinade.  The salt in the yogurt ensures moisture in the final product.

I prepare this dish using a bit of Thai or Indian curry paste, or a spice mix, such as shawarma – whatever I have on hand or can mix in a pinch.

The last thing to mention is to not overcook the bird.  Use a probe or meat thermometer and remove the chicken from the oven when it reaches the USDA-required internal temperature for chicken (at the innermost thigh and wing and thickest part of the breast), which is, at the time of this posting, 165 deg. F.  If you are using an old meat thermometer, be advised that it probably shows a higher temp than currently required for most things, so always check with the USDA.)

If you would like to make the chicken in the photo, here you go:

Roasted chicken with tandoori spices

1 large, whole, roasting or frying chicken, neck and gizzards removed and dried with paper towels
1/2 c. good, thick, full-fat yogurt
1/8 c. lemon juice
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 T. tandoori spice mix (can buy in the spice section of most upscale supermarkets or in Asian/Indian markets
Extra Kosher salt to salt chicken before it goes into marinade – just a little

1)  Whisk yogurt, lemon juice, salt and spice mix.
2)  Salt the inside and outside of the chicken with a little Kosher salt
3)  Loosen skin on chicken, starting from breast end, gently working your fingers down and finally over legs WITHOUT TEARING.
4)  Rub 1/4 of marinade under the skin, making sure to reach all areas.
5)  Rub 1/4 of marinade inside chicken cavities.
6)  Rub remaining marinade over exterior of chicken, getting into all the nooks near the wings and legs.
7)  Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and marinate at least 4 hours.
8)  Place on rack in roasting pan (A rack keeps the bottom of the chicken from boiling in juices, though this is not always a bad thing!)
9)  Roast at 350 deg. F. convection (or 375 deg. F. if you do not have a convection oven) until done.  My 3-pound chicken took about 75 minutes, but you need to go by internal temperature.

If you want to roast a pound of brussels sprouts, do this:

1)  Trim, cut sprouts in half the long way, and wash (one tip, here, which is especially good when dealing with organic produce:  submerge them in water for a few moments, in case there are any little bugs nestled into those tightly-woven leaves).
2)  Place in microwave-safe bowl with a little water, cover with plastic wrap, make one slit in the plastic, and microwave on high for 2 minutes.
3)  Set in high colander to drain until you are ready to roast.
4)  Dry well with a kitchen towel or paper.
5)  Toss onto a sheet pan with some Kosher salt.
6)  Pour 1/4 c. of olive oil onto the pan.
7)  Rub sprouts with oil by hand, leaving them cut side down on the pan.
8)  Roast in the same oven as the chicken for the last 30 or so minutes, or by themselves at 375 deg. F. for 20 – 30 minutes – with convection, if you have it.

You certainly could roast them without the microwave pre-steaming, but they will be less green and less moist.

Tabouli is better at home

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Tabouli in a bowl

I have had so much terrible tabouli over the years that I eat it only at home or at a good Middle Eastern restaurant where I know it is being made fresh.  Many of my friends don’t like tabouli because they have only eaten the leaden, tasteless salad bar versions and have no clue what it is like at its best – fresh, herb-laden and zesty with the crackly texture of the bulgur which serves as its base.

Bulgur, which may be purchased like rice, in a box or bag, or in bulk at establishments like Berkeley Bowl Market or Whole Foods, is parboiled, cracked, dried wheat.  It is soaked to soften it a bit, and then veggies, herbs, citrus juice and oil are added to create a salad.

Here is a very basic recipe that will give you enough for 6  generous sides.  Note that the one thing I do that others generally do not is limit the tomato.  I think most tabouli salads have way too much tomato, which makes it watery, particularly after storage, and cuts down on the impact of the fresh herbs.

Tabouli Salad

2 c. bulgur
2 c. water
1 cucumber (seeded if you like), medium dice
1 small tomato, small dice
1/2 c. mint leaves, medium chiffonade (roll the leaves together and cut them so you wind up with strips.  Use a sharp knife so you don’t bruise or crush the leaves)
1/2 c. flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, rough chop
4 scallions, chopped (use green and white parts)
1/3 c. olive or canola oil
1/2 c. FRESH lemon juice – from actual lemons (use more or less to taste; I like it acidic)
2 T. orange juice (optional – but I like it in there for a touch of sweetness)
Kosher salt & fresh pepper

1)  Soak the bulgur in the water for 1 hour and 15 minutes.*
2)  Pour the oil over the bulger and mix in.
3)  Pour the citrus juices over the bulgur and mix in.
4)  Season with salt & pepper.
5)  Let sit for 15 mins.
6)  See what the dressing situation is.  If the bulgur is super dry, add a bit more oil and citrus juices.  You don’t want it swimming in dressing but you want it a bit wet because the wheat will absorb more dressing.
7)  Mix in the herbs and vegetables.
8)  Taste and adjust seasonings, i.e., add salt, if needed.
9)  Let sit 45 minutes (on the counter is OK).
10)  Fluff with a fork before service.

*I use room temperature water because I like crunchy bulgur.  If you wish, you may use hot water and then reduce the soaking time to where the wheat is at the right point for your taste