Monthly Archives: August 2009

Tried a couple cheeses

Bavarian Blue and Delice D’Argental

Although I buy most of my cheese at Costco (my Costco has an amazing selection of cheeses) and Trader Joe’s, where the prices are low and you can buy small amounts, which you cannot do at Costco, I’ll pick up cheese that calls out to me from places like The Cheese Board or Berkeley Bowl, and just grin and bear the cost in the name of doing right by local non-chain merchants.

Berkeley Bowl West has a nice cheese counter, so I purchased a piece of Bavarian Blue (marked “Bavarian Blue Brie” on the store label) for my mother, and a small cut of Brebirousse D’Argental, because it looked creamy and runny and had a nice funky smell through the plastic.  It also had an orange rind.

Bavarian Blue is mild and creamy, being made with cow’s milk with added cream.  It’s not nearly as rich as triple-creams like Castello or Cambozola, nor strong like Stilton, so it’s good for people who want a hit of blue cheese flavor in a soft texture.

I have not had Brebirousse D’Argental before.  This is a washed rind sheep’s milk cheese from the Lyon region of France that ripens soft and runny.  Even though it’s made from pasteurized milk, which can render cheese somewhat limp in the character department, it retains flavor that is on the musty side of funky, though  it is not what I would call “sheepy” at all.  It has a little tang, and eats like a cheese with more fat content.  Brebirousse D’Argental has a 50% fat content, while a triple cream, like Saint Andre, is 75% butterfat.

There is nothing like having a little good cheese with bread, fruit and wine for dinner.  I still see too many Americans buying crappy cheese.  Just eat less of it but buy a higher-quality product and it won’t cost you mush more.

Note that if you want to purchase cheese in large quantity from Costco – which is something on the order of two pounds, depending upon the cheese – it’s not a problem to keep it fresh for some time, particularly hard cheeses, provided you follow these rules:

1)  Cut what you need from a larger piece and put the remainder in the fridge ASAP
2)  Use fresh plastic wrap EACH TIME you rewrap the cheese
3)  When you wrap/rewrap the cheese, CATER wrap it, meaning use several layers by just winding it around the product a few times; this will keep it from drying out and will prevent your cheese from smelling like the meatballs you have on the next shelf

Some may think this use of wrap is wasteful, but it makes a big difference.  It is a must for soft, runny cheeses, which have a shorter shelf-life than hard cheese, and it keeps things sanitary and pleasing.  Although most resources say that soft cheeses, like brie, will last about two weeks, I’ve been able to do much better than that by caring for them as outlined above, and by using the vegetable bin.

Hard cheese can last for months.

Quick smoke-flavored salmon

If you want to get a little smoke flavor into your fresh salmon before grilling or sauteing, you can do it with Lapsang Souchong tea.  Lapsang Souchong is a black tea from China’s Fijian province that is dried over burning pine.  No kidding, this stuff is so strong that your entire cupboard will smell like a BBQ pit if you don’t store it in an airtight container.  I hate drinking it, but employ it as a vehicle for imparting smoke flavor to various proteins all the time.

You can do this two ways:  make a strong tea and then brush it on, or use the whole, dried, leaves, which is what I do.

tea-cured salmon side

For a side of salmon, just lay it out and sprinkle a handful of the dried tea on the flesh, along with some Kosher salt.  Then roll it up, thin end first, and wrap tightly in plastic.  Toss in a plastic bag or put on a plate and store in fridge for a couple of hours.  Note that the longer you leave it, the stronger the smoked flavor will be.  My advice is to start with a two-hour “cure” first (or one hour, if the fillet is thin) and see how you like it.  Unroll and remove the tea and excess salt.  Prepare as you like, but it’s best grilled outdoors or on a grill pan indoors.

Quick-cured tea salon in a bag

Jon and bacon

Bacon on sheet pans ready for the oven

Trays of bacon in the kitchen mean only one thing:  Jon is here.  Yes, I don’t use a frying pan.  I blast it in the oven at 400 deg. F. (convection), turning it over once during the process.  I don’t want bacon all over the kitchen.  Use sheet pans and parchment paper – but watch out for smoke that will set off your fire alarms!

Jon, who is like a son to us, has been Matthew’s closest friend for about 10 years.  He relocated to Santa Barbara for a job a little over a year ago and wants very badly to move back to the Bay Area.  He misses his friends and all the rest of what is familiar, though he agrees that Santa Barbara is “also pretty nice.”

When Jon’s here I like to make him a big breakfast the day he leaves, and that usually includes bacon.  I got up early today so I also put together some aged cheddar corn muffins, which involves crumbling 4 ounces of cheddar into your favorite cornbread batter and baking as usual.  If you use the one on the side of a box of Albers yellow cornmeal, you can’t go wrong since it is not a sweet recipe.

Corn muffins in the pan with cheddar cheese

I sliced a few ripe tomatoes and soft-boiled some eggs, which rounded out our big Sunday breakfast.

the family at a casual sunday breakfast

Faux gras recipe is pretty good

Chicken Faux Gras on a cracker

I caught an episode of Diary of a Foodie from 2007 (Season 1:  Contraband Cuisine) the other day, and Ruth Reichl provided a recipe for imitation foie gras that she spoke highly of.  Since I don’t eat foie gras (French for “fat liver”) due to the force-feeding procedure involved in its production, I’m always happy to find a recipe that might reasonably mimic its taste and texture, which are mild and silky, respectively.  I figured that I had nothing to lose by trying it, since I’d be fine with a good chicken pate anyway.

The result was excellent, I think, in terms of texture and look.  If you formed this stuff to look like foie gras you’d be hard pressed to think it wasn’t the real thing.  Taste was good, but certainly fell short of real foie gras, which I expected, since I doubt there is any concatenation of ingredients out there able to match that buttery and mild liver flavor.

Final verdict:  All three of us really liked this recipe, and it is the closest I have ever come to foie gras.  If you think of it as a smooth, mild and creamy chicken liver pate, you’ll be fine.  I will be making this for the holidays, that’s for sure.

You will find the recipe on  the Gourmet website here.  Note that I did not bother with the gelee, and I made only half, since it is very rich and does not keep long.

SPAM is not mystery meat!

Hawaii’s SPAM Cookbook

SPAM may be an acronym for shoulder pork and ham, or spiced ham, depending upon which resource you consult.  Hormel indicates that Spam Classic (I love that) is made from “pork with ham, salt [I’ll say!], water, potato starch, sugar, and sodium nitrite.  If you set aside the saturated fat, salt and processing, I guess it’s not as bad as a non-food item that’s sold as food.  I don’t know.  I like to have SPAM musubi or some SPAM and eggs a couple times a century, so it’s not such a big deal for me.  My father loved SPAM, since he ate it in the army, and he would often be seen opening a can with that crazy key resulting in a sharp ribbon of metal that would sometimes slide off course and become vewy intewesting.

When I make SPAM I use the turkey variety, which does not have mechanically-seperated turkey, by the way.  (The USDA requires that it be listed if used.)  This contains less saturated fat, and is the lesser of several evils.  While turkey SPAM does not have the texture of “real” SPAM (and that says something), I usually marinate it in a teriyaki-like sauce anyway, so it winds up tasting the same.

I found a simple recipe in Hawaii’s SPAM Cookbook that I adapted.  It tastes good served over rice – close to SPAM musubi, especially if you serve it with a few strips of nori and season the rice with sushi vinegar.

Soy Sauce SPAM

1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup mirin
2 teaspoons grated ginger
SPAM, sliced; I use two 12-ounce cans for our family of 4 plus a large dog

1).  Bring all except SPAM to a boil in a low skillet; I use a large skillet so I am able to spread the SPAM out
2).  Lay in sliced SPAM and simmer over low flame for 3 or 4 minutes, turning over midway through

Serve with rice and have a bottle of hoisin sauce standing by.

Spam over rice in a bowl