Tag Archives: poultry

Chicken Primitivo

chicken primitivo in dutch oven

Here’s a really easy braise to toss together for a group – or for two meals for a family of 4 or 5.  Although it works well with pasta, I often serve it with crusty Italian bread, which you can dip into the sauce.

I get tired of plain old roasted chicken breasts, and a braise with wine provides richness and complexity.

Braising is often my cooking method of choice.  As long as you have a protein that lends itself to braising, like a tougher cut of beef or stewing chicken, you can put it together and let it go until the meat is fork-tender – usually a couple of hours or more.  If you use split chicken breasts (with the bones and back meat included) from a fryer or roaster, they don’t have to cook as long, but they are sufficiently large so they’ll usually need an hour or more and will develop nice flavor.

Along with your protein you’ll need some braising liquid, like stock; an acid, such as wine or tomatoes; and aromatics, like carrots and onions.  With nothing but these things and a little oil, salt and pepper, you can produce a decent braise.  The trick is to barely cover the protein and to let it just simmer in the oven or on a stove top, and to adjust the cover, which, for me, is usually some foil, so you wind up with a complex sauce at the end that is sufficiently concentrated but not devoid of liquid.

Chicken breasts give off liquid, so if you cover them the whole time, your braise will really be a boil, and the chicken will be swimming in liquid.  Conversely, if you braise some short ribs and don’t cover them at all, you may wind up frying them in rendered fat when all the liquid evaporates.

So, with split chix breasts, I keep them uncovered, and then cover them about 30 mins in – or when the top has some color and the liquid has reduced a bit.

Now, if you want to use fresh spices, feel free, but this is a great dish for dried versions, because they open up nicely.  For God’s sake, though, use fresh ground spices!

Chicken Primitivo
   Serves 9
9 large, split chicken breasts, on the bone/with back meat
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large white onion, sliced
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground marjoram
1/2 teaspoon ground sage
3/4 teaspoon ground thyme
3/4  teaspoon ground oregano
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 bay leaves
20 ounces sliced brown or baby portabello mushrooms
1 large (28 oz) can crushed tomatoes
1/3 bottle primitivo or zinfandel (or another decent red wine with acidity and spice)
Chicken stock, as needed (should need about 2 cups)

1).  In a heavy-gauge, oven-safe, dutch oven, heat the olive oil and add the onion.  Saute for about 5 minutes.
2).  Add the garlic and saute for another minute.
3).  Add the spices and salt and pepper and saute for 30 seconds.
4).  Toss in ‘shrooms and saute for a couple of minutes.
5).  Add canned tomatoes, stir, and allow to simmer for a few minutes.
6).  Add wine, stir, and allow to simmer for a few minutes.
7).  Add chicken by standing pieces on their sides, larger side down.  I use a huge dutch oven and have to do this so they all fit.  They will displace liquid, which is what you want.  They should be about 3/4 or more covered.
8).  Add enough chicken stock so chicken is barely covered.
9).  Stir in the stock a bit, using a spatula, getting between the pieces so the sauce surrounds each one.
10).  Bring to a simmer.
11).  Transfer to preheated 350 deg. F. oven, uncovered.
12).  When liquid has evaporated such that chicken is jutting out slightly, baste top of chicken with sauce and cover loosely (with foil or with lid slightly ajar).  Should be about 30 mins.
13).  Place back in oven until chicken is cooked through -but not overcooked.  Check now and again and add a little more stock if you need to, and/or cover more tightly.
14).  Allow to rest for 10 minutes, uncovered.
15).  Skim fat with flat spoon and serve chicken with plenty of sauce.

Greek-style Chicken Halves

greek roast chicken 2010

Since we’re heading into grilling season big-time, I thought I’d share one of my go-to recipes for moist, golden, flavorful chicken.

The original recipe came from a friend who is of Greek extraction and whom I knew during my many years as a resident of Astoria, Queens, in New York City.

Astoria was and is a great place to eat.

Though the ethnic make-up of Astoria has been changing over the years,* there is still a large Greek community, whose roots go back to the 1960’s.  There’s a European feel to this part of Queens, which lies right across the East River from Manhattan.  In the early 1980’s, when I was young and single, I used to take the subway from Midtown Manhattan the few stops home and then pop into a cafe on 30th Avenue for a snack and an iced coffee to people-watch.  Getting off the train in Astoria was like entering a little oasis.

While the neighborhood has grown, it still feels like a distinct community, and there are wonderful Greek restaurants and stores.  I really miss being able to buy 10 kinds of feta and 30 kinds of olives at Titan, a large Greek market, whose prices now seem mind-boggling considering how much these things cost in the San Francisco Bay Area!

And the pastry shops!  In Astoria you can go have Greek pastry, or even tartufo, an Italian ice cream ball stuffed with fruit and covered with chocolate, in the middle of the night.  Given the heat during Summer, and the state of the wiring in our apartment building that would not support AC, this was a good way for us to cool off.

My son was 8 when we moved to California, so, at 23, he is a more a Californian than anything else, though he likes to go down memory lane via his taste buds.

This chicken recipe is something that really reminds us of warm nights spent in outdoor restaurants eating pita bread with dips and lemony chicken that came to us right off the grill or spit.

I’ve since adapted my friend’s recipe, but it remains true to its heritage, with bright, straight-forward flavors.

I’ve made this with my Weber charcoal grill and in the oven.  If you grill outdoors and can use the indirect method with charcoal, it works very well,  The wind patterns in my current yard don’t allow me to crank up the heat sufficiently, so I use the direct method with some heavy-duty foil.  I do not yet have a gas grill, so I can’t give you any tips for that.

I use a sheet pan with a flat rack for this if I’m using my oven.  The rack is more or less like a cooling rack.

This is great served with pita wedges and a Greek salad.

*There is now a large Arab community in Astoria/Long Island City, which gives you an even greater variety of food and drink options these days than when I lived there!

Greek-style Grilled or Roast Chicken Halves
   Makes 4 halves

2 nice young chickens, cut in half with poultry shears (use good chicken!)
2 or 3 fresh lemons, squeezed of their juice (no bottled lemon juice!)
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1/3 cup olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper

1).  Rub lemon juice into chicken halves very well, getting into all the nooks and crannies.
2).  Salt and pepper the chicken halves very well.
3).  Whisk mustard and olive oil together.
4).  Brush mixture over entire surface of chicken, again being thorough.
5).  Place in fridge for a couple of hours.
6).  Roast in oven at fairly high heat (something on the order of 400 deg. F.), skin side up, on a rack, until internal temp reaches 165.  If you grill chicken outdoors, use your best method for browning the skin and keeping it intact.

Fried chicken livers – too good to believe

Fried chicken livers

Fried chicken livers

I bought some chicken livers to make chopped liver for my husband – which I do annually, but I thought I’d switch it up and make some fried chicken livers instead.  I had them at a soul food place awhile back, and they were so good I found myself fantasizing about them off and on.

This is one of the easiest things to make.  The only way you can screw them up is by overcooking, so don’t do that.

Fried Chicken Livers
     Serves several people as a snack

1 pound chicken livers, trimmed of connective tissue
1 cup milk
1 cup flour
1 tablespoon salt
Enough Canola oil to deep-fry in whatever heavy and deep pan you are using
Freshly ground pepper

1).  Place milk and trimmed livers in bowl and refrigerate for an hour or two and then allow to sit on counter for 30 minutes before frying.
2).  Start heating your oil.
3).  Whisk together flour and salt in a mixing bowl.
4).  Remove livers from milk with your hands and add to flour/salt mixture and shake around until livers are coated.
5).  When oil is hot (350 deg. F. is good, or when some white bread sizzles), shake excess flour off livers and add to hot oil carefully; do not crowd pan.
6).  Move livers around a bit so they don’t stick together.
7).  Fry until golden brown – should not take more than a couple minutes.
8).  Remove to paper towels to drain excess oil.
9).  Add a couple quick grinds of fresh pepper and enjoy while hot

Costco Asian chicken wraps

Costco’s new Asian chicken wraps

I try to maintain an awareness of new products at Costco, particularly their “take home and eat” items, partly because I like to see how creative they can be with their own leftovers.

In this case we have two huge spinach tortilla shells stuffed with the suspects one finds in a Chinese chicken salad.  Each is rolled, burrito-style, and cut in half to offer four portions.  A dipping sauce is provided in a cup on the side.

Inside the wrap you’ll find chunks of breast meat from their house-made rotisserie chickens, dry chow mein noodles and shredded fresh veggies, including cabbage and carrot.

The wrap itself is good – ample and fresh-tasting due to quality ingredients and a generous hand – but the dressing is too viscous for me.  I don’t know if there are gums present, or if they simply make a thick, vinaigrette-style, Chinese chicken salad dressing and use a stabilizer to keep it from separating.  There is something “off” in that dressing, too, but I may be getting unpleasant notes as a by-product of the texture, which I associate with  bad commercial salad dressing.

At $8.99, I don’t know that I’ll be buying them again, but if you don’t want to deal with the prep involved in making your own, I’d give ’em a try – but with a better dressing on standby.

Save your chicken fat for a rainy day

Little packs of frozen chicken fat in my freezer

You should be frugal when it comes to cooking, utilizing whole chickens to full measure.  The Ziploc freezer bag in the bottom slot of my freezer door houses little packages of chicken fat that I’ve trimmed from whole chickens – to be used in other dishes by and by.

Passover is one holiday that sees me pulling chicken fat out of deep-freeze, namely for matzoh balls and chopped liver.  I also use it to roast potatoes and other root vegetables, either adding a bit to my usual canola oil, or going for the gusto and using 100% rendered chicken fat for a special occasion.  Given the saturated fat content of chicken fat versus that of duck fat, I tend to use the former when being luxurious, though I like having both on hand.

Rendering chicken fat for use is easy, and you can do it one of two ways:

1)  After you defrost it, cut it up and spread it out in a saute pan over a low flame.  As it renders, spoon into a container.  When cool, cover very well and store in the refrigerator.

2)  Place chicken fat in a saucepan and barely cover with water.  Simmer over low flame, uncovered.  When it starts to sizzle, almost all the water will have evaporated and you can spoon the rendered fat into a container.  If you find you have too much water, just put the cooled, covered, container in the refrigerator and then pry off the chicken fat when it is solid and move it to a fresh storage container.

You should also be saving chicken carcasses for use in congee and stock.  Stay tuned.