Tag Archives: chinese food

Curry fish balls: A Hong Kong snack on the run

Curry fish balls and coconut juice

Curry fish balls and coconut juice from Hong Kong Snack Shop (Richmond, CA)

If you find yourself running around in the El Cerrito area and are in need of a substantial snack, hop on over to Hong Kong Snack House in Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce).  The mall is in that section of Richmond that juts into the Albany side of ‘Cerrito to the west by the bay.

Pretend you’re going to Costco and head west on Central, only turn left onto Pierce at the intersection from hell — by the two gas stations.  The mall will be to your left as you travel south on Pierce.

This little stall shop carries lots of good eats, and the propietors are nice as can be.  There are pandan leaf waffles, egg puffs, Vietnamese sandwiches (bánh mì), crepes, shumai, spring rolls, fish balls, rice rolls and all kinds of tropical drinks.

I always get the curry fish balls and fresh coconut juice.  You get 5 big curry fish balls on a stick for $1.95.  Buy 3 and you get 1 free, which is what I do.  I eat two skewers in the car and give Matthew the other 2.

The fresh coconut juice is to die for — especially in the summer, when it’s particularly cooling and refreshing.  It’s not cheap, running upwards of $4, but worth it.

I don’t know how the coconut juice at Hong Kong Snack House is concocted.  It’s a little thick and very creamy with just the right amount of sweetness.

It’s not coconut milk, which comes from grated coconut.  It’s not coconut water, the liquid inside a young coconut.  It’s not coconut cream, which is more or less a thicker coconut milk, and it’s not cream of coconut, the sweetened stuff one uses for a piña colada.

It’s as if the best of all of these coconut products were whipped together in a blender.

If you don’t want to have your snack in your car, park yourself on one of the benches in the mall.  Hong Kong Snack House has only one or two tables, and they’re often full.

Ground pork and tofu

Pork with tofu - mabo tofu

Pork with tofu – mabo tofu

I’ve always loved mabo tofu, the Sichuan tofu and ground meat dish that’s both spicy and numbing in its true form, which contains both chili peppers and Sichuan peppercorns.

Many of my friends cannot tolerate the “mala” characterictic of Sichuan cooking – namely the numbing heat – so I adapted a version I can feed to almost everyone.  While it lacks Sichuan peppercorns and bean paste, it still has heat and complexity, and I use a higher ratio of ground meat than is normally used to contrast the soft texture of the tofu.

This recipe uses both chili garlic sauce and red pepper flakes in oil, both of which may be purchased in Asian markets.  The chili garlic sauce looks a little like thick red pasta sauce.  The red pepper flakes in oil will be deep red and the pepper flakes will be mixed with the oil but not ground to a paste.  This product has a fresher look and will have some texture, since it’s not cooked.  Often served on the side as a condiment, I like its brightness when added to this dish.  There are many types of chili in oil, so make sure you get one that is plain or has only peanuts added.  These items will be packed in jars and located in the condiment/sauces section of the market.

Finally, if you don’t have a wok, you can use some kind of heavy, slope-sided pan, but I can’t stress enough how valuable it would be for you to have one flat-bottomed, cast iron wok in your possession.  It won’t stick, needs no wok ring, stays put (it weighs a ton), and retains heat.  I included a photo of mine under the recipe.  In that wok is stir-fried pork chops and red peppers.  If you want the recipe, contact me.

Renate’s Mabo Tofu
Serves 4; serve with rice

2-1/2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1-1/2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
1 green onion, medium chop
1 red chili pepper, seeded, deveined and finely minced
1 pound ground pork
1 tablespoon chili garlic sauce
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes in oil
3 tablespoons dry sherry
1/4 cup soy sauce (real soy sauce, please)
1 pound soft tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons water

1).  Heat oil in wok over medium flame until good and hot – ingredients should sizzle
2).  Add garlic and ginger; stir-fry for 30 seconds (if you don’t have wok tools, use a heat-proof spatula)
3).  Add green onion and chili pepper; stir-fry for 30 seconds
4).  Add ground pork and stir-fry until cooked but not overcooked
5).  Stir in chili garlic sauce and red pepper flakes in oil
6).  Stir in sherry and stir-fry mass for 15 seconds
7).  Stir in soy sauce
8).  Add tofu, carefully folding it in so cubes remain as intact as possible
9).  When mass is bubbling pour in cornstarch mixture and fold in gently until completely incorporated and sauce is slightly thickened
10).  Serve and enjoy!

One of my woks: cast iron/flat bottom

One of my woks: cast iron/flat bottom

San Pablo Lytton casino grub

My Mother-in-law, Elaine, is here visiting from Delray Beach, Florida, which means a trip to Reno – and any other casinos that are handy – with my mother, Renate, Sr. 

They came back with a story the other day about some sort of buffet lunch at the San Pablo Lytton Casino (13255 San Pablo Avenue, San Pablo) based on a sign they supposedly saw on the way back from somewhere else.  I was a little skeptical because I know the restaurant set-up there, but, what the heck, Matt and I decided to drive over and meet them for lunch.

After a parking nightmare we made our way in and to the restaurant – which has no buffet.  We located the two of them at slot machines and decided to eat there anywhere – in the casual dining/coffee shop part, as I recalled having had dinner at the fine dining restarant there a few years ago and it being just fine and figuring the rest of the food is probably OK, too. 

I questioned their information about the buffet, and got back something sketchy from them about a sign saying, “Lunch for $7.99,” and their assuming that, since it was a casino, it “has to mean buffet.” 

I’m actually glad they kept the casual dining part as-is, because it’s pretty good.  They have many, many choices, including a couple of oddballs (for a casino coffee shop, anyway), like “oxtail over rice,” and there is a Chinese theme here – in keeping with a large portion of the casino’s clientele.  There are all kinds of sandwiches, fried chicken, burgers, fried catfish and chips, steak, calamari, and almost anything else you’d want.  The prices for most things are quite decent, which makes sense, though be aware that the fine dining option, The Broiler, is pricey.  In my opinion they should be running their entire food service operation as a loss-leader; there are not many regular diners near the casino, and I think they could rope more people into the place by making all of the food a bargain.

Our table of four ordered two BLT’s with avocado ($6.75), one catfish with chips ($7.25), a “Big Bucks Deluxe” burger ($6.95), an iced tea ($1.75) and two coffees ($1.25). 

Everything was fresh and appetizing looking and the service was great.  The BLT’s had plenty of ripe avo and enough bacon to satisfy her nibs (Renate, Sr.), though both mothers said they like their bacon less crispy.  Well, the time to say something about that is when the order is placed.  Matt’s catfish was a side fillet that looked like it had a cornmeal crust, and I guess it was pretty good because he chomped it down.  My burger was nice and hot (everything that was supposed to be hot was hot) and cooked rare, as requested.  It tasted like decent ground meat, and had some fried onions along with the usual toppings.  All the sides of fries were fine, and the coleslaw that came with the fish was very good, tasting as though the dressing was something on the order of a Chinese chicken salad dressing.

My mother was very pleased about the coffee being $1.25; she keeps complaining about the price of a regular cup of coffee in the Bay Area.  They make a good cup of coffee, by the way, and the ice tea is fresh-brewed.

The people in the place are very nice and were happy to accommodate my requests for special things, like a side of ranch dressing for my fries. 

It’s seems odd in that you are eating in an open area near the slots, but the air is well-filtered of cigarette smoke and it’s kind of a hoot, really, to have a bite in there.

Put some long beans in your life

That’s right – it ain’t all about run of the mill string beans these days.  Go to your local Asian greengrocer – or an Asian megamarket, like 99 Ranch Market – and pick up some long beans.  They look like green beans but are about 18″ long and are sold like asparagus, with rubber bands around them.  Like so:

Long beans

Here’s a good way to prepare them:

Long beans in chili garlic sauce

1 1/2 lbs long beans
3 T canola oil
2 heaping T chili garlic sauce (you can buy this in a jar at any Asian market)
2 T soy sauce

1)  Wash and dry the long beans LEAVING ON THE RUBBER BANDS.  Cut into 1 1/2″ lengths starting at the ends that do not have to be trimmed.  You’ll be able to tell by looking.  If you leave the bands on it will be easy to cut them all at the same time with a chef’s knife.  You should be left with 1/4″ of beans at the “bad” end, which you may discard.
2)  Heat the oil (get it really hot) in a wok or rounded pan in which you are able to stir fry.
3)  Add the beans, stir frying for not longer than 5 mins.
4)  Stir in the chili garlic sauce, making sure to keep everything moving.
5)  Finish by stirring in the soy sauce.
6)  Transfer to serving dish and eat ASAP.

Here is what they should look like:

Long beans with chili garlic sauce

Fog in the East Bay

fog in el cerrito CA in november 2008

It was a foggy evening.  Fog is no stranger to the East Bay, but I can’t remember when I’ve seen such thick fog meandering around from bay to hills.  When Steve walked Berry, they had a good time with it because Berry enjoys anything that involves colder weather. 

fog in el cerrito california november 2008

Check out the photos I took outside the house.  Although you lose something in the translation with a photograph, they at least give you an idea of how fog looks in these parts.  When you’re in it, it’s a little like pea soup, and sometimes it moves past you in moist clouds. 

fog in el cerrito california in november 2008

 This was, however, a perfect evening for congee, aka jook, so it was handy that I decarcassed my freezer in the morning to make way for Thanksgiving leftovers.  I have a congee recipe here, so I will only remind you again to freeze all your poultry bones — raw and cooked — and when you have enough saved up you can make this delicious, warming rice porridge.  I wish I had a photo of Berry in the fog; he looks like such a criminal when it wafts around him.

bowl of congee or jook