Monthly Archives: October 2007

Boulud’s Braise

Two braises served with rice

I made two recipes from Daniel Boulud’s Braise (2006) today, the tripe with spicy yellow peppers and watercress (pg. 100) and Southern-style black-eyed peas with bacon (pg. 181).  Let’s talk tripe.  I love it, and this dish sounded so damned good I thought I’d go through all the prep and the zillion ingredients to prepare it.  I used what he said and did what he said and it turned out good.  It was complex – a bit spicy with a sweetish backdrop – but I think I’d like a little more peanut butter and a higher PTT (potato-to-tripe) ratio.  The extra PB would make it a bit more comforting and provide more body to the sauce, and the potatoes make the dish a meal while serving as a foil for the flavor parade that is the sauce, so more of them would be a plus.  I’d also reduce the stock slightly.  I can’t see myself making this dish all that often, not so much because it is quite a bit of work, but for the same reason I only order Singapore chow fun one time for every thirty orders of “regular” chow fun:  it has a very distinctive flavor and, as a matter of personal taste, it’s not something I want more than a few times a year. 

Briased tripe dish from boulud's book Braise

I took a couple of liberties with the black-eyed peas and bacon dish:  I used canned black-eyed peas and substituted 2/3 of the slab bacon with pork belly, which is basically slab bacon that has not had anything done to it.  If you like a pronounced smokey flavor, then you should use all slab bacon, but I like it in small doses.  I also used slightly over a pound of meat, which is way more than the recipe calls for, but I had a piece of pork belly in a “use it or lose it” situation.  Finally, I substituted plain old yellow onion for the red.  This was excellent – so savory and rib-sticking.  Next time I make this pork and beans super deluxe I’ll serve it with some crusty rolls and a green salad.  I cooked it so long it was like a confit – and a little goes a long way.

pork belly braise inspired by Boulud's book Braise

Castro Street Festival

Castro Street Festival in SF in 2007

Castro Street Festival in SF in 2007

Matt went to the Castro Street Festival today with friends Ross and Ken.  He’s been hopping over to SF every weekend for this or that event and then having a bite over there and reporting back on quality.  Today they stopped in at Slider’s Diner (449 Castro Street, SF) for burgers and thought they were pretty good.  Matt told me that Welcome Home had closed, which is too bad since we went there often when we first moved here in 1995.  They met up with Gino Ramos later in the day and went over to the Dignity service in the Sunset to connect with Gino’s partner, Paul Riofski.  Paul schlepped them south to have dinner at Harry’s Hofbrau (1297 Chess Drive, Foster City).  Harry’s = big hunks of meat.  You can get a serious turkey or roast beast groove on at Harry’s while feeling like you stepped back in time.  This must be the only place you can get a side of carrot and raisin salad with your Swiss steak, and where your mashed potatoes happily swim under a lake of gravy.