Monthly Archives: April 2010

Costco in Richmond has whole smoked whitefish again

smoked whitefish 2010

Yes, you heard that right – these bad boys are back.

I was experiencing agita because I had not seen any whole smoked whitefish at Costco for about 6 weeks.  I mean, they did not have them at Passover.  Why get rid of smoked whitefish at Passover?

Happily, I saw some the other day, so I’d shake a tail feather if you want to make some whitefish salad to go with your bagels this weekend.

To remind you, this product comes direct from The Acme Smoked Fish Company in Brooklyn.  Average size is about 2 pounds and average price about $16.  Worth every dime, and the price is fabulous.

Easter eggs now all gone

easter egg 2010

I ate the last Easter egg in the house yesterday.

My Mom always colors a batch, purchasing a PAAS egg color kit and rejecting my large Ateco set of gel food coloring, and we eat them for breakfast on Easter morning and then over the next 4 or 5 days.  She makes them so that the yellow is slightly soft – perfect for an egg sandwich or atop a frisee salad.

She used cage-free eggs because she could not find white organic eggs, but we read something in Sunset about brown eggs coming out in jewel tones when steeped in color for a goodly amount of time, so she’ll go that route next year.

A really high-quality leftover Easter egg on toast with a slice of ripe tomato and a bit of good mayo is a simple pleasure not to be missed.

Red Hawk cheese

Cowgirl Creamery's Red Hawk cheese

Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk cheese

Not too long ago I parted company with $17 at Berkeley Bowl West for a 10-inch round of Cowgirl Creamery’s funky, pinkish Red Hawk.  I buy this every once in awhile because it’s not only pricey, but incredibly rich.  It’s a triple-cream cheese with a brine-washed rind that’s aged 4 weeks.  It’s a bit soft when young, but becomes very soft and then runny when ripe.  When very ripe, it’s got some serious stank going on – and I mean that in the best way possible.  Spread on a crusty Acme sourdough roll with some raspberry preserves – you’re home.

Cowgirl Creamery has been putting out some excellent cheeses since 1997.  They’re local (Point Reyes Station & Petaluma), and use local organic milk, so I like to give them business when my wallet allows me to.

Their most popular cheese may be Mt. Tam, a firm, buttery and earthy triple-cream, and it is good, but I can’t stay away from the lush and plush Red Hawk.

All their cheeses are award-winning.  Have a look at their website before you pick some up so you know what you’re getting, but there’s no way you can go seriously wrong.

There’s a Cowgirl Creamery in the SF Ferry Building (One Embarcadero, San Francisco), which will allow you to purchase bread at The Acme Bread Company down the hall at the same time.  Certain Bay Area markets, like Whole Foods and Berkeley Bowl, usually have a decent selection, but Red Hawk can sometimes be hard to come by.

The Cheeseboard Collective (1504 Shattuck, Berkeley) is a place I’ve seen Cowgirl Creamery products, but I usually go there to be educated about some cheese I’ve never heard of.  This is not only a great cheese shop, but it’s connected to the birth of California cuisine (think Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, which is across the street.)  If you go to the Cheeseboard you can pick up some fabulous bread and olives, too, as well as a spectacular cheese roll, which you can eat on the way home.

Thai steak salad

Thai steak salad - a great way to use leftover steak!

Thai steak salad – a great way to use leftover steak!

I had a large piece of leftover tri-tip (end of the bottom sirloin) on my hands the other day and wanted to use it as-is, since it was nice and rare.  One of the best ways to use leftover steak is in a salad with Thai flavors.

The inspiration for this dish is nam tok, the Issan/Laotian* grilled beef salad containing herbs, fresh veggies, rice powder and a fish sauce/lime juice dressing.  Anyone who knows me knows I love the food of Issan, the Northeastern region of Thailand, which is famous for its hom mali (Jasmine) rice production and, sadly, the poverty of its farmers.  Many of these farmers have been spending time in Bangkok in recent years selling street food, which has made Issan goodies quite popular there, particularly gai yang, a pungent version of grilled chicken.  I’ll post more about Issan in the future, but the one thing you should know about its food is how clean tasting and bright it is, being highly dependent upon fresh produce.  *Note that Issan and Laos share a border, and that the people of Issan are of Laotian heritage, because there wasn’t always a border between them.

The one thing that may throw you here is the rice powder.  Rice powder is toasted rice that has been ground to something between coarse and fine, and it gives Issan warm salads a nice crunch.  It is best to make it yourself, and I’ll tell you how to do that.  In a pinch, though, you can use rice cereal (Cream of Rice).  Just toast it slowly and carefully in a pan over a flame and then allow it to cool.  This will not be half as good as real rice powder, but sometimes you have to make do.  Make sure that whatever you use is not so hard that people will damage their teeth.  Check your work – make sure it’s toasted enough.

If you want to make this a meal, serve it with sticky (sweet) rice.  This would be authentically Issan/Lao.

Renate’s Thai-stye Steak Salad
   Serves 4 or 5

3/4 – 1 pound leftover steak, sliced in thin strips (nothing with destinctive seasoning)
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon sugar
1 red chili pepper, seeded & deveined, finely minced
2 green onions, sliced into small rounds
1 English cucumber (if a huge one, use half), sliced
1/4 cup Thai basil, thick chiffonade (roll and cut)
1/4 cup cilantro, rough chop (don’t make tiny pieces)
1/4 cup mint, thick chiffonade
1 tomato, cut into large cubes
1 small red onion, sliced medium
6 cups lettuce
2 tablespoons rice powder (recipe below)

1)  Combine the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chili pepper well and set aside
2)  Place the sliced steak into a bowl and toss with a couple of tablespoon of the dressing; set aside for 10 minutes
3)  In a large bowl, toss everything (including the marinated beef and dressing) except the rice powder
4)  Check seasoning.  If too mild for your liking, mix up a little more dressing.  If not sour enough, a little lime juice.  And so on
5)  Toss in the rice powder at the last minute and serve

Rice Powder

1/4 cup sweet rice (it’s not really sweet )
Heavy saute pan
Mortar & pestle or clean coffee grinder* or stand blender or bullet blender (blenders have to be very dry!)

1)  Toast rice over low-ish flame until golden brown.  Keep it moving.  Don’t burn it.
2)  Remove rice to a small bowl and allow to cool completely
3)  Grind until you have a coarse powder
4)  Store what you do not use in an airtight container, but don’t keep it more than a month or so

*If you use a coffee grinder that you use for spices, make sure it is absolutely clean.  You can grind a batch of rice to clean it completely.  Don’t use a coffee grinder that you also use for coffee.

Bo Kho – Vietnamese beef stew

Bo kho - Vietnamese beef stew. So good!

Bo kho – Vietnamese beef stew. So good!

One of my favorite Vietnamese dishes is thit bo kho, or beef stew.  You often see it on menus as ‘beef stew noodle soup,’ and it comes in a big bowl with rice or egg noodles.  In Southern Vietnam it’s eaten with French bread instead of noodles.  Doesn’t matter – it’s all good.

The recipe that follows is from my friend and cooking school mate, Phu Nguy, who translated it for me recently, and talked me through its nuances.  Currently a chef at a fancy Japanese place in San Francisco, he’s been a wonderful sushi resource, but this soup is pure heart.  When it comes down to it, we are the food we grew up with, and it’s clear that Phu has been down with thit bo kho for some time now.

The broth of this stew/soup is fragrant, red, rich and complex, and the big pieces of beef and potato translate to comfort food no matter where you’re from.  There is something a little different about it, though.

There is star anise here.  Even if you are not a big fan of its licorice-like flavor, try this stew anyway because it really works here.  There’s anise in Chinese-style BBQ duck, and you like that, don’t you?

There’s lots of prep, but resign yourself to it.  Turn on the radio and enjoy it.  Please use real, fresh ingredients, like actual lemongrass stalks, bulb garlic and fresh ginger.  Make sure your dried spices haven’t lived in your kitchen since 1990.  Asian cuisine relies on bright, fresh flavors, and your dishes will really shine if you make the extra effort.

Here are a couple of tips to help with the recipe:

1)  Chopping lemongrass is a bit of a pain, but you can do this in a small food processor if you’re in that much of a hurry.  Take off all the outer leaves until you are left with the tender part inside.  Cut the top half off and use the bottom half.
2)  The curry powder called for is basic curry powder – nothing fancy.
3)  Buy whole star anise.  It’s best to get this loose at places like Whole Foods so you can buy a small quantity at a time.
4)  A daikon is a huge white radish, and any Asian market will have them.  Check out the daikon in this photo:

daikon

5)  Do not upgrade the meat requirement.  You need a tough, flavorful cut that requires long, moist cooking.
6).  Use potatoes of the waxy variety that will hold their shape, i.e., red.
7).  Seriously consider the tendon option (see ** below).  If you like pork belly you should try it.  Tendon has the mouth-feel of fat but contains very little, and texture-wise is something like firm gelatin.  It picks up the flavors of what it’s cooked with, in this case the rich broth of the stew.
8).  When I want to super-enrich the broth and/or I have extra people to feed, I add more beef, but only 1-1/2 extra cups of water per extra pound of meat.

I hope you try this.  You won’t believe how good the broth is, so make sure you have extra baguettes on hand.  Be sure to check out the photos at the end of the post.

*   *   *   *   *   *

Vietnamese Beef Stew  Bo kho
Serves 6

Ingredients
Beef chuck or bottom round – 2 lbs (cut into 2-inch cubes) */**
Canola or vegetable oil – 3 tablespoons
Fresh lemon grass – 2 stalks (discard the leaf; use the bottom half and finely chop)
Fresh red chili peppers – 2, seeded and minced
Brown sugar – 2 teaspoons
Fresh ginger root – 2 tablespoons, grated
Ground cinnamon – 2 teaspoons
Curry powder – 2 teaspoons
Freshly ground black pepper – to taste
Fish sauce – 3 tablespoons
White onion – 1, medium dice
Garlic – 4-6 cloves, minced
Tomato paste – 1/3 cup
Star anise – 4 whole
Salt – 2 teaspoons
Carrot – 2 medium, cut into medium-sized cubes
Red potatoes – 4 of average size, peeled, cut into medium cubes
Daikon (Japanese or Korean) – 1 peeled, and cut into medium cubes
Baguette  – 1 whole, warmed in oven for a few minutes before serving
Lemon wedges

Procedure
Marinate the beef in a mix of the lemon grass, chilies, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, curry powder, fish sauce and black pepper in a bowl.  Mix well and let stand for 45 mins. 

Beef process
In a heavy Dutch oven, heat the oil until quite hot.  Sauté the onion and garlic for a minute and do not allow to burn.  Add tomato paste and stir-fry for 1 ½ mins.  Add the beef and let it fry on all sides for a few minutes  — until it gets a little color.  Add the star anise, 1 teaspoon of the salt and 4 ¼ cups of water.  Bring to a boil and then lower the heat and allow to simmer for 1 hour and 45 mins.  Skim foam from the top occasionally.

Vegetable process
Add the carrot and cook for 10 mins.  Add potatoes and cook for 10 mins.  Finally, add the daikon and cook for 10 mins.  (In total, this stew simmers for 2 hours and 15 mins.)

Check the beef for tenderness.

Serve in deep bowls with bread (dip it into the stew) and with salt, pepper and lemon wedges on the side.

*For more flavor:  add extra beef.
**To make it authentically Vietnamese:  add beef tendon.  If you want to do this, cut tendon into pieces about 2-inches long and then boil in plain water for a good two hours before you make this soup.  Then add it with the beef.  If you boil the tendon until it is quite soft, then you can add it to the soup with the carrots.  Tendon is all connective tissue, and takes a long time to become soft.

Beef cubes in marinade for bo kho

Frying meat and seasonings for bo kho

Adding veggies to bo kho