Tag Archives: pan asian cuisine

Tuna, Asian-style, for a hot day

Abacore with a cold sauce

On a hot day I want to eat sushi, usually, or something like it, and this dish satisfies that yen at an easier price without all the work.  This recipe also combines hot and cold, which is something I like, particularly when it’s warm out.  I serve this with rice or over a salad, often with shredded daikon on the side.

Albacore with a cold Asian dressing

4 large, thick albacore (or ahi) tuna pieces (if you live near a Trader Joe’s you can get these frozen)
1/2 c. low-sodium soy sauce
1/4 c. orange juice
1/8 c. white vinegar
1 T. sugar
1/4 c. sesame oil (buy at Asian markets but most supermarkets carry this now)
1 T. chili oil (optional)
1 T. black (toasted) sesame seeds for garnish

1)  Whisk everything but the fish and the sesame seeds together and set aside.
2)  Heat a nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron grill pan over medium-high heat until it is HOT.  If you think it will stick, rub a little oil onto it with a paper towel – but very little.
3)  Place fish in pan so that you will wind up with diagonal grill marks.  Depending upon the thickness of the fish, you will leave it alone to sear for 2 – 4 minutes.  You want to wind up with a rare interior.  Do not move it around during this process.  Turn over and cook for another 2 – 4 minutes, again, depending upon the size of the pieces.  Let me say this again:  you want this rare, or you may as well use canned tuna.
4)  Arrange nicely in deep serving platter and cover with dressing.
5)  Sprinkle sesame seeds on top.

Salmon mousse rolls

Salmon mousse and scallop spring rolls

Salmon mousse and scallop spring rolls

I had them in a frenzy over salmon mousse and scallop spring rolls.  I took a recipe from chef Ming Tsai and modified it over time.  He does a salmon mousse (Tea Spiced Smoked Salmon Mousse) that contains crushed lapsong souchong tea leaves and chipotle powder.  Frankly, I think the recipe is better without both, because they overpower the delicacy of the mousse.  I leave out the five spice power, as well, but that’s just me.  Here is a simplified version of the recipe:  Process in your food processor with the large blade until barely chunky:  1 pound of smoked salmon (lox), 1 minced shallot, the juice of one lemon, 1 cup heavy cream and a couple of crank’s worth of black pepper.  Add 1 cup of heavy cream (this makes a total of 2 cups of heavy cream) and process until very smooth.  Transfer mass to some kind of covered container and pop in the fridge for a couple of hours.  Eat as-is with toast points, or use as a filling, with scallops, for spring rolls.  To make the spring rolls, you need: 1 and 1/4 pounds of fresh sea scallops, 12 rice paper wrappers and one batch of salmon mousse as above, give or take.  The dried rice paper wrappers look like round parchment circles and are available in Asian markets.  Soften them in warm water for a couple of minutes and then layer them in damp-to-wet paper towels.  Slice the scallops into thirds so you have numerous thick, circular scallop pieces .  Do not cut them so you end up with non-circles!  Lay out a wrapper on a cutting board, being careful not to tear it.  Smear about 1/24 of the mousse in the middle in a line about 3″ long, keeping well away from the edges.  Line scallop slices on top so you have enough for the other 11 wrappers.  Top scallop slices with another 1/24th of the mousse.  Roll up like a tight burrito, folding both sides in first and then rolling toward yourself.  They’ll wind up flat no matter how good you are at this, but you want them as tight as you can get them.  Place on a flat surface, folded side down.  Make the other 11 spring rolls.  In a large, non-stick pan of some kind, heat about 1/4 cup or so of Canola oil.  When the oil is hot, but not burning hot, lay in as many of the spring rolls as you can – folded side down – without crowding.  Reduce the flame to low and let them brown.  Turn over gently with a spatula and allow to brown on side two.  Do not overcook!  Do not overcook! Move to a paper towel base to drain.  Repeat until they are all done.  I serve these spring rolls by slicing in half at an angle with a sharp knife, and garnish with some chopped chives or green onion.  They are good; the mousse becomes fluffy when cooked.

salmon mousse and scaollop spring rolls in saute pan

Thai-style lettuce wraps

Thai-style lettuce wraps

Thai-style lettuce wrap filling

Make something easy and refreshing, like I did.  I had a 1 pound container of lump crabmeat from Costco on hand that I needed to use, as well as three heads of romaine lettuce.  What else would there be to do but make Thai crab lettuce wraps?  I could rig up the lettuce leaves and filling and then we could all roll our own wraps on the fly while watching a movie.  Sold.  I broke up the crabmeat and mixed it with chopped scallions, roasted peanuts, lime juice, fish sauce (you can get this in any Asian market), Sriracha sauce (ditto about the Asian market, but you can use some kind of dried, ground chili, as well, though not the ‘chili powder’ mix  for chili con carne), chopped cilantro, a few chopped mint leaves, shredded red cabbage, a pinch of sugar and a little salt.  Make your filling to taste with the things I mention, but if you are not used to nailing that hot-sour-sweet profile so common in Asian cuisine, then mix the liquids, Sriracha and sugar by themselves until they work well together (taste as you go) and then add the result to the other ingredients.  You don’t want to waste a pound of crabmeat, which I would rather die than do.  Advice:  don’t add too much liquid to the filling; you can always save leftover sauce for something else.  Go easy on the salt, because there is plenty of it in fish sauce.  Go easy on the fish sauce.  Fish sauce is magical.  If you use a little, you’ll get great flavor that won’t immediately make you think of fish sauce.  Too much, and you will be turned off and won’t taste the crab.  Let the mass sit and mingle in the fridge for an hour, covered.  To prep the lettuce, just cut off the stem and separate the leaves.  Fill your sink with cold water and some ice, if you have it, and let the leaves soak in there for a few minutes.  Move them, in layers, to paper towels.  You can then roll them up in the towels, wrap up and store in the veggie crisper of your fridge, if you won’t be eating right away.  I don’t need to tell you how to eat this, do I?  I thought not.

Sushi spring rolls

Sushi spring rolls

In the interest of something light and fresh, I made sushi spring rolls this evening.  This is something I have been making for years, essentially rolls with rice paper and lettuce instead of rice and seaweed.  You need:  butter lettuce leaves, spring roll wrappers (these are made of rice and are dry and round — kind of clear.  You need to soak them before use) and fillings.  If you purchase some sashimi grade albacore tuna, which is reasonably priced, and a package of kani kama (fake crab meat set up in pieces for sushi), you’ll be in good shape.  Be sure you have a bit of Best Foods/Hellman’s mayo, some Sriracha hot sauce, a few scallions, an English cucumber and a Haas avocado, too.  With these things you can make tuna rolls, spicy tuna rolls, tuna and scallion rolls, fake crab rolls, spicy fake crab rolls, California rolls, spicy California rolls, and more.

You’ll need to prep everything first and then set up an assembly line.  Separate your lettuce leaves, wash and dry them thoroughly.  You can store them in a plastic bag between damp paper towels if you prepare them in advance.  Wash/dry/chop the scallions.  Peel the cucumber and cut into 3″ X 1/4″ segments.  You won’t need to seed an English cucumber, but you will if you use the other kind.  Cut the halved avocado into long slices.  Take half of your kani kama and pull it apart slightly so it is not so densely packed.  This stuff is generally stringy so you will be pulling apart strands.  If you get the variety that is solid, which is not as good, then just leave it as-is.  Shred the other half and mix with enough mayo to make a non-runny crab salad.  Take half of the crab salad and mix in a bit of the Sriracha.  You will now have some kani kama, some crab salad and some spicy crab salad.  Take your tuna and cut it into 3″ strips of any thickness you like.  If you bought a large piece of albacore you should have some trimmings – meaning perfectly good to eat but in scraps.  Chop the trim coarsely and  mix with a little Sriracha.  If you don’t have trim then you can use some of your blocked tuna, of course.

You now have, count ’em, five fillings.  Set up an assembly line starting with a large bowl of warm water, about six wet paper towels, and a dinner plate.  Then you’ll need a dry board to prepare your rolls, and a sharp knife and clean place to cut them.  I use a large board and do the cutting on one corner.  Finally, you’ll want a serving plate to place the cut rolls.  Place your veggies and fish fillings within easy reach of the board, and be sure to keep the bottle of Sriracha handy in case you want to squeeze some directly into rolls.  Have plenty of hand towels nearby.  Now take four of the wrappers and submerge in the bowl of water.  Let them stay there for about a minute.  Lay a wet paper towel on the dinner plate and spread out a soaked wrapper on top of it – being careful not to split or tear it.  Then cover with another wet paper towel.  Keep layering until you have no more wrappers.  Add wrappers to the water and replace in the paper towels (new ones on the bottom of your layers) as you go so you always have soft wrappers ready.  Then you will need to do this:  take a wrapper and lay it out on your board.  Cover the inner 2/3 or so with lettuce leaves so you are placing filling onto the lettuce and not the bare wrapper.  Add veggie lengths in the middle and then top with some sliced fish or fish salad so you have sort of a tube shape of fillings.  Add scallions – or not.  Pretend you are filling a burrito in that you want to wind up with a hefty roll but have enough of the outside of the wrapper available to roll it without any ooze.  Then roll it up as you would a burrito:  fold in the sides and then tuck the top under the front of the fillings and roll toward you as tightly as you are able.  It takes practice to produce a non-floppy roll, but you can always eat your mistakes.  Then cut the roll in half at an angle and place on your serving platter.  Since all of these fillings go together you can add what you like when creating rolls.

Eat them as soon as you can after they are put together and serve with soy sauce, ginger  and wasabi, if you like.  Note that I did not include any quantities since I do not know how big you will be making your rolls.  For the four of us I generally use about 12 ounces of kani kama and 12 ounces of albacore.   If you live near Berkeley you can buy the fish at Tokyo Fish (1220 San Pablo Avenue) or Berkeley Bowl (2020 Oregon Street).  They carry large pieces (about a pound or so) of frozen sashimi grade albacore that generally needs only minor trimming of fibrous material.  I have rarely had to deal with a bloodline in these hunks of fish – which you always want to trim off and discard.  The kani kama will also be available frozen.  Buy the frozen fish a day or two in advance and let it thaw out in the fridge.  The rest of the stuff can be found at any decent Asian market.  Trust me.

Another hint is to keep everything dry.  Wet lettuce, for example, will keep softening the wrappers and turn your rolls into mush.  Keep moving your wrappers, too – don’t let them sit in the water too long.  Even if they feel too firm when you take them out they will be soft enough when you need them because they will be in wet paper towels awhile.  If the paper towels dry out, wet them.  Wipe your knife off with a kitchen towel between roll cuttings.  Finally, don’t yell at me if you feel these instructions are not detailed enough.  Instead, just contact me if you want to know more.  Believe me when I tell you that these rolls are worth learning how to deal with spring roll wrappers.