I had them in a frenzy over salmon mousse and scallop spring rolls. I took a recipe from chef Ming Tsai and modified it over time. He does a salmon mousse (Tea Spiced Smoked Salmon Mousse) that contains crushed lapsong souchong tea leaves and chipotle powder. Frankly, I think the recipe is better without both, because they overpower the delicacy of the mousse. I leave out the five spice power, as well, but that’s just me. Here is a simplified version of the recipe: Process in your food processor with the large blade until barely chunky: 1 pound of smoked salmon (lox), 1 minced shallot, the juice of one lemon, 1 cup heavy cream and a couple of crank’s worth of black pepper. Add 1 cup of heavy cream (this makes a total of 2 cups of heavy cream) and process until very smooth. Transfer mass to some kind of covered container and pop in the fridge for a couple of hours. Eat as-is with toast points, or use as a filling, with scallops, for spring rolls. To make the spring rolls, you need: 1 and 1/4 pounds of fresh sea scallops, 12 rice paper wrappers and one batch of salmon mousse as above, give or take. The dried rice paper wrappers look like round parchment circles and are available in Asian markets. Soften them in warm water for a couple of minutes and then layer them in damp-to-wet paper towels. Slice the scallops into thirds so you have numerous thick, circular scallop pieces . Do not cut them so you end up with non-circles! Lay out a wrapper on a cutting board, being careful not to tear it. Smear about 1/24 of the mousse in the middle in a line about 3″ long, keeping well away from the edges. Line scallop slices on top so you have enough for the other 11 wrappers. Top scallop slices with another 1/24th of the mousse. Roll up like a tight burrito, folding both sides in first and then rolling toward yourself. They’ll wind up flat no matter how good you are at this, but you want them as tight as you can get them. Place on a flat surface, folded side down. Make the other 11 spring rolls. In a large, non-stick pan of some kind, heat about 1/4 cup or so of Canola oil. When the oil is hot, but not burning hot, lay in as many of the spring rolls as you can – folded side down – without crowding. Reduce the flame to low and let them brown. Turn over gently with a spatula and allow to brown on side two. Do not overcook! Do not overcook! Move to a paper towel base to drain. Repeat until they are all done. I serve these spring rolls by slicing in half at an angle with a sharp knife, and garnish with some chopped chives or green onion. They are good; the mousse becomes fluffy when cooked.